The clock in the Landcruisrer says 1215 and it's getting dark outside. 60km out of our destination of Kombolcha and entering hour 11 of our 373km journey and it looks as if all hell appears to break loose. Having successfully avoided a maze of livestock, about 200km of roadworks and kept a safe distance from the continually lolling head of the jetlagged Brit in the passenger seat, our Ethiopian driver was now attempting to repeat the day's feat only this time in the dark. The only contrast visible is the massive mountains against the dimming western sky and in even in the headlights it was impossible to distinguish between human, cow, camel, mule, sheep or goat on a chaotic road until it was too late. But to a soundrack of Bob Marley, our man drove it home. In
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